Posts tagged “Ilford


1st & 2nd Pass Lith Printing

As mentioned in the former post I dived into the second pass lith printing thingy. This means exposing the paper like normal, developing in standard bw-developer, stopping, fixing, rinsing, bleaching the print in a sepia bleach bath, rinsing, re-developing in Lith. Below I’ll describe how I did it, which chemistry I used, which papers etc. and the only thing you’ll have to pick up from this post is NOT to do it like I did now. It didn’t quite work out the way I anticipated it, mostly because of lack in technique.

Papers used:
* Ilford MGW.1K, fiber based warmtone paper
* Ilford MGT.44M, PE based warmtone pearl paper
* Ilford MG ART 300 paper (their new stuff)
* Ilford IB0.26K, Ilfobrom expired grade 0 paper
* Ilford IB4.26K, Ilfobrom expired grade 4 paper
* Rollei 131, fiber based warmtone paper

Chemistry used:
* 1st pass standard bw-developer Amaloco AM6006 1+9
* 2nd pass Moersch Easylith developer 1+1+24, + 50ml old brown in a total bath of 2 litres
* Sepia Bleach home-made: 100 gr Potassium FerriCyanide & 100 gr Potassium Bromide to 1 litre of water
* Amaloco S10 stopping bath 1+19
* Amaloco X89 fixing bath 1+4

Other variables:
* Temperature of lith developer +/- 30 degrees Celsius
* No MG filters used when exposing the paper
* Bleaching time approx. for all prints: 3 minutes

I think I screwed up on a couple of points. First of all, I used to many  different kinds of paper. This was my first try-out with bleaching and redeveloping it would’ve been smarter to just try one or two papers, take it from there and when I feel I got it a bit under control, try more papers. But, as I don’t have that much time, I figured the more the merrier. Well, not always 😉

Secondly, I’ll try a different 1st developer as it’s supposed to have an effect on the outcome after the 2nd development. I will try Agfa’s Neutol WA next.

Thirdly, I noticed a lot of stains, stripes and the like turning up during the 2nd pass developing. According to Tim Rudman’s book this is due to sloppy technique (which is quite possible) or bad rinsing, pollution etc. I rinsed too many papers in a too cold a rinsing bath because of my urge ‘the more the merrier’ so I screwed up there I think. Also, I didn’t hypo the prints after fixing. I though a decent rinse would be just as effective for this testing phase. I should know better.

What I didn’t like about the redeveloped prints is that they don’t have the coloration I wanted, they remain pretty much black and white, like before I bleached them. Perhaps that has to do with the amount of time I redeveloped them? Too long for the strength of the developer? Maybe I bleached the prints too long?
And I will try the SE5 as the 2nd pass lith bath. It’s the bath I want to go work with in the future so what’s the point anyway with using the Easylith when I know I want to switch entirely anyway.

It’s a whole new world which I will go back to this afternoon. I hope the new tryouts will be a bit more of what I’m after. I’ll be using the paper Ilford MGW.1K and if I can find the time, also the MG ART 300. Agfa Neutol WA as 1st developer and SE5 as my second. I’ll reduce the bleaching time to about 1 minute to see what that changes. Anyway, not all at once 😉

An example of a bleached print before re-developing in lith

bleachedprint

Ilford MG ART 300
7s exposure time | no filter
AM6006 normal bw developing (BORING) | 1:30 minutes | 20 degrees Celsius

5_bw

Ilford MG ART 300
40s exposure time | no filter
Amaloco AM6006 normal bw developing | 1:30 minutes | 20 degrees Celsius

1st pass Easylith 1+1+24 | 1/2 Old Brown | 4:25 minutes | 30 degrees Celsius

19_1stpass

Ilford MG ART 300
7s exposure time | no filter
AM6006 | 3 minute sepia bleach
2nd pass Easylith 1+1+24 | + 1/2 old brown | +/- 30 degrees Celsius

Ilford MG ART 300
7s exposure time | no filter
Amaloco AM6006 normal bw developing | 1:30 minutes | 20 degrees Celsius

2nd pass Easylith 1+1+24 | 1/2 Old Brown | 8 minutes | 30 degrees Celsius

4_2ndpass

The rest of the images really isn’t worth posting. I don’t even know what to make of them..let alone make them into a comprehensive something. I’ll slowly back away now and lock myself up in the basement for some more juice 😉


Ilford Art 300 – New (Lith) Paper

Only recently I found out that Hahnelmühle created a new darkroom paper for Harman Ilford, the Art 300 paper. It was on the lith group on Facebook I first came across this paper. I immediately ordered it as it seems to be quite lithable, if not immediately than with second pass lith. I ordered the paper right away and hope to try it out tomorrow. I want to try out this second pass lith (so first development with normal developer, bleach back the print and redevelop using lith). Looking forward to these experiments!

ilfordart300

 

TBC!


Ilfobrom Meets Lith

A while back I bought a batch of Ilfobrom paper online to try out with the lith developer. I bought to packages, grade 0 and grade 4. Yesterday came the day I was ready to try it!

The first print I made I had the paper upside down under the enlarger (lol) so when after 5 minutes no image showed in the developer I figured I made that mistake and ditched it. Number two developed for over 17 minutes (eek!). Number three is what you see here, developed for about 20 minutes and number four I tried the grade 4 paper which took a development of around 15 minutes. As you can imagine the already short amount of time I had in the darkroom flew by and before I knew it it was time to call it a day.

I’m not too sure how to feel about it. Obviously more tests are required but the paper feels kinda cool. Like pearl paper but much more sturdy like you would expect from FB paper. The print on grade 4 required a longer development time in my opinion and apparently I smudged it with my finger tips (never had that happen in all the years I work in the darkroom) but the proof is hard to deny 😉

Also, grade 4 looks to have a lighter streak in the middle of the image. Not sure why this happened so more tests will be required to see.

I hoped my new chemistry would arrive before Easter but unfortunately that won’t happen. I ordered, among A LOT of other things, chemistry to make a sepia bleach. Next time I try this paper I want to process it the normal way, bleach and redevelop in lith. Looking forward to what that’ll give me! On to the uber-fantastic photos 😉

Normally I wouldn’t leave the borders around the images but I thought it be cool if I showed the finger prints as well. They also fall under copyright 😉


Rollei 131 FB & Lith: One More Image

Here is the last photo of the “weird-square-in-Florence-but-good-for-portfolio” series printed last night. A huge difference of the version from the former post!

Paper: Rollei Vintage 131 FB Developer: Rollei Vintage Developer (Lith) 2+1+24 Exposure: f5,6 16 sec. filter 3 Development: about 4 minutes Not yet toned

Paper: Rollei Vintage 131 FB Developer: Rollei Vintage Developer (Lith) 2+1+24 Exposure: f5,6 16 sec. filter 3 Development: about 4 minutes Not yet toned

It took quite a bit of fumbling as 6 minutes were way too long for developing; blacks closed up so experimented with the time to get it correct (for me). I also have a slightly lighter version; will seen which one holds up best after being toned.

Anywayzzz, again more to follow!