Posts tagged “film


Saturday I had a day off at work because I had to pick up my work from the Art.Room gallery (yes, show is over; the month went by as if it was nothing). A very relaxed and easy day and when I finally got back home I still had some hours to spare before ‘my man’ came home. I was in doubt whether I’d shoot some plates out there or do some lithy stuff in the darkroom and chose the latter because the weather didn’t look that stable. Here are some examples of that printing session. It was not a fantastic session but I discovered some negatives never printed before, discarded a few others and once again realised too late the emulsion side of the collodion glass plate has to touch the surface when making a contact print 🙂

A couple of months back I went to C-Mine in Genk  (BE) to see the photo exhibition ‘Yakuza” by Anton Kusters. This is a beautiful place which has plenty of things in and outside to photograph. Photos taken with my Leica M6 + Elmarit 28mm f2.8 using Kodak T-Max 100 film (wish I had a faster film in the camera that day because the light was very low and the photos are not crispy sharp because of too long shutter speeds).

No filter | Exposure 20 seconds | Snatch point 4m49 | Rollei Lith 1+1+24 20 degrees | Rollei 131 FB Paper


No filter | Exposure 30 seconds | Snatch point 4m26 | Rollei Lith 1+1+24 20 degrees | Rollei 131 FB paper


I also ran into the Redbird film I shot in Ellmau, Austria (I only posted the scans of some of the negatives here a while back) and decided to give that a go. Not sure whether I like it; it has some coolness but also a lot of grain which comes from the film itself. I might have to experiment more with that negative to get better separated parts and make the grain less bothering.

No filter | Exposure 50 seconds | Snatch point 4m56 | Rollei Lith 1+1+24 20 degrees | Rollei 131 FB paper


My final print was one of my collodion clear glass ambrotypes shot at the Enci in Maastricht. Forgot to place the emulsion side on the paper which results in a loss of sharpness. Better next time; not contacting but properly enlarging for I like its characteristics.


Anyway, nothing special and hope to get back in there soon!


First Leap into Infrared Film Photography

I think it was 3 years ago when I bought a Hoya R72 filter with an adapter to fit my Hasselblad lenses. I also bought a 35mm Rollei Infrared film. 35mm? Yes. I don’t know why but I bought 35mm infrared film, obviously I wasn’t thinking straight 😉 It took me quite a bit of time to finally start working with this. I thought, before I hit the big 30 later this week (Thursday to be exact, Doomsday to be more specific) I should at least have done this once.

After having worked two whole weeks except for Sundays I had the past Monday off and when I woke up at 9:30 I thought, WOW, this looks like a great day to finally go IR all the way. I jumped out of bed, took a happy shower, took care of my bunnies, ate something and packed my stuff. The weather was awesome so decided to make a small trip on my bike through lovely Limburg-land.

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The first two kilometres I used to pick up some 120 film at my work when I realised I only had 1 roll of 35mm in the fridge. The other 48 I used to find locations to my liking but also to enjoy the biking. My favourite sport is spinning and at the moment I’m actually saving up to buy a proper racing bike so this journey was quite the pleasant one!

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The weather was absolutely perfect as you can see on the Snapseeded iPhone photos (I solely work on black-and-white, unless stated otherwise, so all the colourful photos on here are either made with the iPhone or the Canon Powershot S100). The temperature was around 24 degrees, sunny but with marvellous clouds to cheer up the scenery. Blue skies are pretty much boring, except when laying next to a pool 😉

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So, how did I go about it? After a quick read on the www I determined the following M.O.: I set external light meter to 64 asa and measured the scenery. I took that reading and compensated 5 stops for the filter. The desired aperture for me was F/16 so I made a bracketing of 1/2, 1 and approx. 2 seconds. The reason I used F/16 is to compensate for any flaws in focusing. Because this infrared film records a different wavelength focusing is a bit different. My 50mm FLE has a small red line especially for IR photography. I shoot landscapes and normally focus on infinity, then I turned the infinity mark to match the red line on the lens, to the ‘new’ infinity line for infrared so to speak and voila!

Film: Rollei Infrared 400
Filter: Hoya R72
Camera: Hasselblad 500CM + 50mm FLE

Exposure: 1/2 second at F/16 (all images you see here)
Developing: Kodak HC110 dilution B for 9 minutes at 20 degrees
Scan: using Epson V700 (done nothing special, it’s about the print later on anyway, a negative is nothing more than just a starting point ;-))

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There are a couple of things that stand out, besides the obvious IR effect which I dig and think it will look pretty combined with lith. The first is that the negatives are really dense. Even the shadows are dense. Really dense. BUT, I do have a lot of detail. And grain 😉 I made contact sheets today (which look much more impressive than these scans btw), I had the lens fully opened (Componon-S 80mm F4) and had an exposure time of 85 seconds. Huhum, my ‘normal’ negatives usually require something closer to 5 seconds, so to give you an idea.

Secondly: I seem to be suffering from a light leak. Well, not me but my camera. Not sure what causes this, especially since with some they are on the left side and with others they are on the right. I have to admit I did not change the films in the dark (no hell no, I’m working outside in the sun!) but I might try changing them in shadows next time, when I can find them 😉

I had a chat with Robert Hall who discussed my results (thank you!) and I will change some things next time:
I will shoot a roll at the same exposure time of 1/2 and bracket 2 stops shorter; development time shorter than I have now (7 minutes or something, yet to determine).
I will shoot a roll where I will measure the light with my Spotmeter F at F/12 and skip the compensating for the filter. Develop as I did this time.
Change developer: Robert recommended using a staining developer like PMK or Pyrocat.

Conclusion: haha, I’ll get back to you next time, enjoy your evening 😉

Ohhhh and a very big tip for when riding 50 kilometres on a bike: Wear decent bike pants!! I should have known that 😉
For the ones interested in where these photos are taken: Somewhere between Eijsden, Mesch, Lixhe, Voeren and Maastricht etc.

Rollei Redbird Film

I’m not much of a fan of colour in my personal work but seeing the results (and we started selling this film at work) I thought it would be cool to try and shoot a roll. Having read that you can lith print colour film I thought it would be kind of cool and, as such, not a necessary waste of efforts. Well, it is kind of cool though I can be rather short about this first roll of film….OVEREXPOSE!

Pretty logical when you know it’s a reversed winded film. The light has to penetrate the base layer first before hitting the light sensitive part. I liked it enough to buy a second roll which I will expose as 100 or maybe even 50 ASA, but definitely not as the rated 400 ASA! From what I read online it’s tough to overexpose this film 😉

Below an example of an accidentally “correctly” exposed negative and from an underexposed one, the latter being absolutely unusable with its grain. Images have been taken with the Leica M6 coupled with the Elmarit 28mm f/2,8



Fun nonetheless and looking forward to the next film 😉